Oct 30, '10

Bo Innovation

Har mi, lo mein, chilli, sage, carabinero wonton

Alvin Leung of Bo Innovation in Hong Kong is so passionate about what he is doing he could speak for hours about one or another product or a preparation method. Maybe he is known for his bold statements, but what speaks most loudly is his creative yet delicious food and his ability to reinvention.

We’ve seen new French or new Spanish, new American and recently – new Scandinavian. It seems that  Chinese cuisine is still very closely tied to tradition. When I was at Bo Innovation almost two years ago, I thought the food was very good but didn’t differ too much from all those modern-molecular European restaurants. Alvin’s cooking has evolved since then- he has turned to the rich Chinese culinary and cultural heritage. Although  Alvin Leung enjoys using such “non-Chinese”  products as foie gras or fatty tuna, each and every dish had an exciting Chinese touch that was both, intelligent and inventive.

Some of the highlights of the dinner…

“Pat Chun, pommelo, pineapple” Mousse like cream made with Pat Chun rice vinegar, pommelo and pineapple. Perfect to open the appetite- the Pat Chun vinegar was very present among of all the flavours.

Pat Chun, pommelo, pineapple
Pat Chun, pommelo, pineapple
Pat Chun vinegar
Pat Chun vinegar

The wine pairing was excellent. Sake “champagne” to begin with. I’ve never had it before.

Sake "champagne"
Sake “champagne”
Mizubasho Pure
Mizubasho Pure

“Har mi, lo mein, chilli, sage, carabinero wonton” Noodles that were infused with oil made of the shrimps pictured in the second image below. The slightly cooked shrimp tempura was incredibly fresh. (I think “har” means shrimp in Chinese while “lo mein” is the name of the Chinese noodles dish. Correct me if I am wrong!). One of my favourite dishes.

Har mi, lo mein, chilli, sage, carabinero wonton
Har mi, lo mein, chilli, sage, carabinero wonton
Shrimps
Shrimps

“Demon riesling” – Alvin Leung is also a wine maker.

Demon riesling
Demon riesling

“Caviar, smoked quail, crispy taro”  Bo Innovation classics. Needless to say -very good.

Caviar, smoked quail, crispy taro
Caviar, smoked quail, crispy taro

Fried tofu in spicy Chinese sauce. Loved the contrast of the products.

Fried tofu in spicy Chinese sauce
Fried tofu in spicy Chinese sauce

“Roses, foie gras, mei kuei lu, pickled daikon, peas”. The foie gras was infused (?) with “mei kuei lu chiew” (pictured in the second image). You could taste rose and alcohol flavours.

Roses, foie gras,mei kuei lu, pickled daikon, peas
Roses, foie gras, mei kuei lu, pickled daikon, peas
Rose petals poured over with liquid nitrogen
Rose petals poured over with liquid nitrogen

Rose petals poured over with liquid nitrogen. You didn’t have to eat them- just smell.

Rose petals poured over with liquid nitrogen
Rose petals poured over with liquid nitrogen

Chinese noodles wrapped in Iberian ham

Chinese noodles wrapped in Iberian ham
Chinese noodles wrapped in Iberian ham

“Toro, foie gras powder, raspberry” Perfect

Toro, foie gras powder, raspberry
Toro, foie gras powder, raspberry

“Hairy crab, Zhenjiang vinegar” Hairy crab is an expensive Shanghainese cuisine delicacy. The texture of the dish was similar to crème brûlée with pieces of crab in it. Excellent

Hairy crab, Zhenjiang vinegar
Hairy crab, Zhenjiang vinegar
Hairy crab, Zhenjiang vinegar
Hairy crab, Zhenjiang vinegar

“Nitro- shao hsing ginger tea” Ginger tea “cooked” in liquid nitrogen.

Nitro- shao hsing ginger tea

 “Kruger-Rumpf Spätburgunder Trocken” – red wine from Germany.

Kruger-Rumpf Spätburgunder Trocken
Kruger-Rumpf Spätburgunder Trocken

“Molecular- xiao long bao” A molecular version of another Shanghainese speciality – soup dumplings. Nothing but pork broth. Very good.

Molecular- xiao long bao
Molecular- xiao long bao
Red braised baby artichokes, sweetbread, abalone, lettuce
Red braised baby artichokes, sweetbread, abalone, lettuce

“Hunan ham, honey, cod, chicken jus, peas” Onion infused with ham from Hunan region(the second image), honey sauce, fresh cod. Great dish.

Hunan ham, honey, cod, chicken jus, peas
Hunan ham, honey, cod, chicken jus, peas
Hunan ham, honey, cod, chicken jus, peas
Hunan ham, honey, cod, chicken jus, peas

“Saga-gyu beef, black truffle, cheung fun, braised green onion”. Top-quality Japanese beef was wrapped in  “cheung fun”, a rice noodle roll. Very good.

Saga-gyu beef, black truffle, cheung fun, braised green onion
Saga-gyu beef, black truffle, cheung fun, braised green onion

“Sandalwood, almond, hawthorn” The pot was filled with smoke that you can find only at Chinese temples.  Under smoke – delicious pannacotta like almond cream.

Sandalwood, almond, hawthorn
Sandalwood, almond, hawthorn

“Shui Jing Fang, banana, vanilla, caramel, raisins” Caramelized banana tart with “Shui Jing Fang”, Chinese liquor. The amazing cake you don’t get to eat every day.

Shui Jing Fang, banana, vanilla, caramel, raisins
Shui Jing Fang, banana, vanilla, caramel, raisins
Petit fours
Petit fours
The place
The place
The chef
The chef

To conclude, Bo Innovation is by far the most interesting restaurant in Hong Kong. The food is creative, delicious and educational.  I’ve learnt a lot about traditional Chinese products yet the cooking methods used are inventive and modern. What Noma is for Scandinavia, El Bulli for Spain, Bo Innovation is for China. Definitely one of the best restaurants I’ve been this year.

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