Frantzén revisited

Hot pot: Swedish beef, tongue, cabbage and truffles
Hot pot

I’ve written about Frantzén restaurant (at that time- Frantzén/Lindeberg) one year ago, so I won’t elaborate on it too much, but for me  Björn Frantzén is one of those chefs who have a natural talent to think outside of the box without trying to change the world. And when I think about it, this is the kind of cooking I’ve always appreciated most : never compromising on the quality of the ingredients, staying faithful to one’s region, without being fanatical about it, and, creating something that tastes really good, which is the primary aim of cooking, isn’t?

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Björn Frantzén (in the middle) and the team

What has changed since the last time I’ve been to this pocket sized restaurant, located in the premisses of a former milk shop, in the heart of Stockholm? Björn’s former partner, Daniel Lindeberg is no more with the restaurant. I suppose Daniel was more involved in the dessert and pastry making, so I wouldn’t say that his departure has influenced the overall cooking.  Björn’s recent trip to Japan has shifted the cooking even further East though. No more Swedish bread dough rising in front of you,instead, the bread is reduced into a delicious soup of fermented rye with quark. Having no bread in between the courses is undoubtedly one more step towards the philosophy of kaiseki.

My favorite dishes of the menu? Of course, the signature ones like the “45 min” oyster (fresh and full of sea flavors) , the bone marrow with caviar (what can be more decadent than that?),the scallop and the dashi drunk from it’s shell, or, the revisited “Satio tempestas”, this time containing late autumn mushrooms and vegetables ; but also the new dishes,like the slowly cooked cod with onions and dill (so light and “clean”) and the “hot pot”, Swedish beef hot pot with cabbages and truffles… Beautiful as it sounds..

Canapé. Celeriac mille feuille with truffle and chesnut. Potato and blood pancake with, cloudberry jam & duck liver.  Pig´s head in potato aioli with Ramson capers, Pig´s tongue on crispy pork rind. ”Vichyssoise”. Pomegranate & galangal root macaron with liver cream, dried beetroot & crispy cherries
Canapés.
Celeriac mille feuille with truffle and chesnut.
Potato and blood pancake with, cloudberry jam & duck liver.
Pig´s head in potato aioli with Ramson capers, Pig´s tongue on crispy pork rind.
”Vichyssoise”.
Pomegranate & galangal root macaron with liver cream, dried beetroot & crispy cherries.
Oyster ”45 min” with frozen sea buckthorn, cream flavoured with juniper, berries & walnut.
Oyster ”45 min” with frozen sea buckthorn, cream flavored with juniper, berries & walnut.
King crab cooked in beer and dill.
King crab cooked in beer and dill.
Crispy white moss & frozen foie gras.
Crispy white moss & frozen foie gras.
Bone marrow with smoked parsley, smetana and caviar.
Bone marrow with smoked parsley, smetana and caviar.
Fermented yellow beet, salt baked red beet and raw candy beet with goats yoghurt and cheese.
Fermented yellow beet, salt baked red beet and raw candy beet with goats yoghurt and cheese.
Soup of fermented rye with quark.
Soup of fermented rye with quark.
Scallops with creamy Iberico goose egg, summer truffle & ”dashi”.
Scallops with creamy Iberico goose egg, summer truffle & ”dashi”.
Scallops with creamy Iberico goose egg, summer truffle & ”dashi”.
Dashi
”Satio Tempestas” iingredients of the moment.
”Satio Tempestas” ingredients of the moment.
”Satio Tempestas” in two servings.
”Satio Tempestas” in two servings.
”Satio Tempestas” in two servings.
”Satio Tempestas” in two servings.
Cod with onions, dill and vendace roe.
Cod with onions, dill and vendace roe.
Hot pot: Swedish beef, tongue,cabbages and truffles.
Hot pot: Swedish beef, tongue,cabbages and truffles.
Ice cream of toasted buck wheat, whipped brown ale, chestnuts and caramel of chestnut honey.
Ice cream of toasted buckwheat, whipped brown ale, chestnuts and caramel of chestnut honey.
”Spicy orange”, rosehips marmelade, carrot compotte, sea buckthorn parfait and carrot foam.
”Spicy orange”, rosehips marmelade, carrot compote, sea buckthorn parfait and carrot foam.
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View comments (2)
  • i just did a post on frantzén, too! so. so. delicious. want to go back!

    • luxeat

      One of my favorite restaurants in the world!