I’ve written about Frantzén restaurant (at that time- Frantzén/Lindeberg) one year ago, so I won’t elaborate on it too much, but for me Björn Frantzén is one of those chefs who have a natural talent to think outside of the box without trying to change the world. And when I think about it, this is the kind of cooking I’ve always appreciated most : never compromising on the quality of the ingredients, staying faithful to one’s region, without being fanatical about it, and, creating something that tastes really good, which is the primary aim of cooking, isn’t?
What has changed since the last time I’ve been to this pocket sized restaurant, located in the premisses of a former milk shop, in the heart of Stockholm? Björn’s former partner, Daniel Lindeberg is no more with the restaurant. I suppose Daniel was more involved in the dessert and pastry making, so I wouldn’t say that his departure has influenced the overall cooking. Björn’s recent trip to Japan has shifted the cooking even further East though. No more Swedish bread dough rising in front of you,instead, the bread is reduced into a delicious soup of fermented rye with quark. Having no bread in between the courses is undoubtedly one more step towards the philosophy of kaiseki.
My favorite dishes of the menu? Of course, the signature ones like the “45 min” oyster (fresh and full of sea flavors) , the bone marrow with caviar (what can be more decadent than that?),the scallop and the dashi drunk from it’s shell, or, the revisited “Satio tempestas”, this time containing late autumn mushrooms and vegetables ; but also the new dishes,like the slowly cooked cod with onions and dill (so light and “clean”) and the “hot pot”, Swedish beef hot pot with cabbages and truffles… Beautiful as it sounds..