Oct 15, '14

Jimbocho Den

Zaiyu Hasegawa
Zaiyu Hasegawa

Zaiyu Hasegawa is a superstar among foreign travellers and chefs eating out in Tokyo. The reason why is simple – he and his wife Emi- san are friendly and accessible people. In the secretive city like Tokyo, where sometimes you have to be introduced or accompanied by a Japanese speaker in order to eat at some exclusive restaurant, being able to write an email yourself and reserve a table is quite a rare thing to do. (You can find Jimbocho Den contact details here.)

Monaka waffle with foie gras, chestnut paste and pickled cucumber filling
Monaka waffle with foie gras, chestnut paste and pickled cucumber filling

The other reason why is, of course, the culinary pleasure you get when dining at Jimbocho Den (2-2-32 Kandajinbocho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo). Zaiyu Hasegawa describes what he does as “home cooking”, but there is nothing amateur about the products and techniques he uses (far from that). Zaiyu -san is particularly inspired by popular culture, so don’t be surprised if your slowly cooked wagyu ( Japanese beef ) will be served in a plastic container, used for takeaways in Japan ( like during my previous visit in 2013); or amazing sugar cane, black truffle and custard dessert will end up in a mock Starbucks or “Star Comebacks” cup.

Oyster in okura and dashi sauce
Oyster in okura and dashi sauce
Salmon roe with rice cooked in dashi
Salmon roe with rice cooked in dashi
Suzuki (seabass) sashimi in plum, dashi, vinegar and honey sauce
Suzuki (seabass) sashimi in plum, dashi, vinegar and honey sauce
Kuroge wagyu, cooked in dashi for a very long time. Served with beets
Kuroge wagyu, cooked in dashi for a very long time. Served with beets
20 different herbs and vegetables from the garden owned by chef’s sister. Pretty extraordinary.
Matsutake mushroom rice
Matsutake mushroom rice
White cheese mousse, Japanese persimmon and rum jelly
White cheese mousse, Japanese persimmon and rum jelly
Cane sugar cooked for 8 hours, black truffles and custard pudding. ( Served in that mock Starbucks espresso cup). So intense and so good.
Cane sugar cooked for 8 hours, black truffles and custard pudding. ( Served in that mock Starbucks espresso cup). So intense and so good.
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