So what exactly is Thierry Marx cooking at his 2 Michelin stars restaurant Sur Mesure is about?
Modernist structures like the soufflé with Mont D’Or cheese whose sourness was unpleasant and somehow artificial?
Foamy textures (and molecular techniques) like in the soya shoots and oysters risotto which should be once and forever left for Ferran Adrià’s memoirs?
Truffle oil which rather belong to the overpriced Courchevel restaurants you stop to have lunch on your skiing break than a Parisian institution?
Asian fusion flavours like in the “Peking” style pork with “bamboo” salsify dish? (good but slightly cold)
Or pretty classic (and pretty) petit fours ( I didn’t have a dessert) and savoury madeleines not really matching the cutting edge- futuristic image of the restaurant?
Having said that, Mandarin Oriental (5+ stars) is an exceptional hotel while it’s sleek bar is a destination by itself. By the way, the tapas (by Thierry Marx?) I had there the night before were delicious.
