After eating in all these "alpha" sushi places in Tokyo the standards for fish and rice get pretty high.I don't want to sound snobbish- the first time i went to Japan i was so ignorant , i thought that sushis are the most basic meal to prepare, something everyone could do. When i realized that sushi making is a real know-how and it is rice with fish, not opposite, i had a whole new picture in my plate.
Anyway, Kyoto is far away from the sea and the region is not famous for sushi. Remember,the Edo-mae, sushi as the whole world knows, was born in Tokyo. Sushi Matsumoto (570-123, Gionmachi,Minamigawa,Kyoto) is the only sushi restaurant in Kyoto that has received two Michelin stars.
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Last time i had a kaiseki dinner, i promised to myself that i won't have it "any time soon". "Not any time soon" was exactly two years. I don't even know if you can have a dinner in Kanamean Nishitomiya if you don't stay at the ryokan. The ryokan has only 9 rooms and the chef (Kanamean san ?) is also the owner(together with his wife).The location of Kanamean Nishitomiya is 5 minutes away from Nishiki market- perfect for the style of cooking where seasonal,fresh products are fundamental.
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Staying in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in Kyoto was a very special experience. Let's say,hoteliers who are willing to learn how to host a guest in their hotel should stay in a high end ryokan for at least one night. The experience was "special" from the moment my taxi stopped at the door of Kanamean Nishitomiya, until the owners couple waved me goodbye.
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L'Ami Louis ( 32 Rue du Vertbois 75003 Paris, tel. 01 48 87 77 48 )
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