Feb 28, '08

Ze Kitchen Gallery

Ze Kitchen Gallery
Fruits from Corsica

After having heard so many positive things about Ze Kitchen Gallery in Paris, my curiosity brought me there also. And what a refreshing lunch it was! It was “refreshing” in many ways- the Thai cuisine influence, outstanding quality of the products and the fact, that what you have on your plate looks and tastes ten times better what you read on the menu. Most of all, William Ledeuil and Nicolas Houlbert, the people behind this rising star (I had a chance to chat with both of them) have an incredible passion for what they do and that is what counts most. The menu is changed every few weeks, so I expect to return to Ze Kitchen Gallery very soon…

“Yellow carrot, Galanga broth, Kumquat-orange condiment, roquette emulsion”  Normally I don’t like cooked carrots, but in this soup, you didn’t feel carrot, but the marvellous acidity of the exotic citrus fruit. Genius marriage of all the ingredients. William Ledeuil and Nicolas Houlbert use a lot of exotic fruit (the first picture) that are actually grown in Corsica. I don’t remember the name of the supplier, but they said he is the only one to supply the exotic fruit to the Parisian chefs. I think it is the same who supplies the agrumes to Pierre Herme.

Yellow carrot, Galanga broth, Kumquat-orange condiment, roquette emulsion
Yellow carrot, Galanga broth, Kumquat-orange condiment, roquette emulsion

“Marinated octopus, mustard and Shizo salad, green apple, Curcuma condiment” An innovative way to serve octopus- the structure was something like terrine.

Marinated octopus, mustard and Shizo salad, green apple, Curcuma condiment
Marinated octopus, mustard and Shizo salad, green apple, Curcuma condiment

“Grilled scallops with lemongrass, confit limequat, sweet potato croquette, coriander”. Very good.

Grilled scallops with lemongrass, confit limequat, sweet potato croquette, coriander
Grilled scallops with lemongrass, confit limequat, sweet potato croquette, coriander

“Grilled mackerel, green mango condiment, potato and watercress” Excellent potato purée –  a total opposite to the Robuchon’s purée which is famous for being “half butter”. I love them both, but the potato purée in Ze Kitchen gallery is proof that one can make a hearty purée with little fat in it…

Grilled mackerel, green mango condiment, potato and watercress
Grilled mackerel, green mango condiment, potato and watercress

“Coconut and mango cappuccino; vanilla and passion fruit emulsion” This is a dessert that even if you are not a dessert person, will bring you to heavens. The ingredients are very simple, but when all together they create an explosion of tastes.

Coconut and mango cappuccino; vanilla and passion fruit emulsion
Coconut and mango cappuccino; vanilla and passion fruit emulsion
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