I first met Takaaki Sugita at his former sushi-ya Miyakozushi in 2012. It’s never really been included in Michelin guide, but already then it was one of the hardest places to book and easily on the same level as Saito or other Tokyo’s best. Then I had the honour to film with Sugita-san for Foodies: The Culinary Jetset documentary at the Tsukiji market, where we met the vendors from whom he buys his fish. Sushi making can seem straightforward at first sight (or from an inexperienced point of you), but, thanks to such shokunins like Sugita-san, has grown into a complex art. Maybe that’s why time stops, when you eat Sugita-san sushi. Each morsel of fish and seafood is treated differently with one aim to bring out the best flavours, textures and umami. Like this exceptional, slightly grilled and buttery kinmedai ( golden eye snapper).