Joel Robuchon is a man of fashion. And the fashion of the moment is called Japanese food. Yoshi is the first Joel Robuchon’s Japanese restaurant in the world. It was opened in Metropole hotel in Monaco where there is one Robuchon’s restaurant already. The chef in the kitchen is 39 nine-year-old chef from Japan Takeo Yamazaki, while Joel Robuchon does the guidance.
I won’t hide- I like Robuchon’s innovative, delicious cooking and spotless perfection (most of the times). So, of course, I thought Yoshi will be mind-blowing. I love Japanese too, love so much that toro at 5 o’clock in the morning at the Tsukiji market in Tokyo was like a dream to come true.
No toro in Yoshi. Maybe because Monaco has banned the endangered bluefin tuna from its shops and restaurants and that is a good thing of course. The bad thing was that I didn’t find Yoshi any mind-blowing or even something new. Yes, the standard of the quality of sahimis was pretty high, undoubtedly, some of the best quality raw fish I have ever eaten in France.
The edamame was delicious as well – firm and fresh, how it has to be.
But these are the “dishes” any decent Japanese chef can prepare(just go to an authentic sushi place in NYC). Where was the signature of the world’s most famous French chef?
Was it octopus salad with spicy sauce? Octopus with boiled potatoes slices and green salad- quite average dish I could make at home.
Or was it overpriced for what it is (51 euros) marinated and grilled black cod? Quite good but not as good as at Nobu chain.
According to Japan Times article, Yamazaki comes up with ideas for the menu and Robuchon makes a decision on food and presentation. Maybe that explains all – Robuchon is not that implicated in the creation of the dishes. On the other hand, why one would give his name for a restaurant where most of the dishes are just copies of dishes you can find at banal “fashion” restaurants around the world?