Vegetarian cooking has become increasingly more important in high-end dining. When I started eating at fine restaurants, it was very rare to see simple vegetables served as a dish by itself. Nowadays, thanks to the influence of such gastronomy luminaries as Michel Bras, Alain Passard or Rene Redzepi, some restaurants have menus dedicated only for vegetarian cuisine. A separate vegetarian menu ( on top of the ” proper” non-vegetarian menu) was what attracted me first to Le Cinq, 2 Michelin starred restaurant at George V hotel in Paris. I guess it’s easy to play with caviar, truffles or foie gras, but try to bring carrots or green salad to a Michelin star level… It’s then when you see how far a chef can go.
Eric Briffard used to live and work in Japan, but it’s not only umami that is highlighted in his work. I was pleasantly surprised by the unorthodoxy in some of the Briffard’s creations. (Especially for a traditional restaurant at a Parisian “palace” hotel). How about udon with edamame beans and shiitake mushrooms or tofu and seasonal vegetables with Moroccan style spices and a splash of soya sauce? The slowly cooked hen egg with cèpes in Jerusalem artichokes and Parmesan cream was pretty classic, but at the same time delicious and perfectly executed… For me, Le Cinq is definitely one of the most interesting gastronomic restaurants in Paris at the moment, where I hope to return soon…
