Feb 1, '13

Sur Mesure by Thierry Marx

Soufflé with Month D’Or chesse and truffle
Soufflé with Month D’Or chesse and truffle

So what exactly is Thierry Marx cooking at his 2 Michelin stars restaurant Sur Mesure is about?
Modernist structures like the soufflé with Mont D’Or cheese whose sourness was unpleasant and somehow artificial?
Foamy textures (and molecular techniques)  like in the soya shoots and oysters risotto which should be once and forever left for Ferran Adrià’s memoirs?
Truffle oil which rather belong to the overpriced  Courchevel restaurants you stop to have lunch on your skiing break than a Parisian institution?
Asian fusion flavours like in the “Peking” style pork with “bamboo” salsify dish? (good but slightly cold)
Or pretty classic (and pretty) petit fours ( I didn’t have a dessert) and savoury madeleines not really matching the cutting edge- futuristic image of the restaurant?
Having said that, Mandarin Oriental (5+ stars) is an exceptional hotel while it’s sleek bar is a destination by itself.  By the way, the tapas (by Thierry Marx?) I had there the night before were delicious.

The Interior
The Interior
The amuse bouches
The amuse bouches
Soya shoots and oysters risotto with black truffle
Soya shoots and oysters risotto with black truffle
Savory madeleine
Savory madeleine
"Peking" style pork with "bamboo" salsify
“Peking” style pork with “bamboo” salsify
Sweet bento petit fours
Sweet bento petit fours
Chocolate cake
Chocolate cake
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