Oct 27, '08

Per Se

Per Se

Per Se is by far the best restaurant I have ever been to the USA. It is worth every high rating it has – whether it is 3 Michelin stars or 28/30 in Zagat. The view of the Columbus Circle was stunning, the people working there knowledgeable and extremely professional, and most of all, the food was phenomenal.

Without a doubt, Thomas Keller has a place among the greatest. One surely needs the talent to create such a divine experience.

Per Se

The lunch started with gruyere puffs and salmon cornets with crême fraîche cream and red onions. The moment I tasted these tiny treats, I realized the level of Thomas Keller cooking. I realized that something huge will happen during lunch. Gruyere puffs and salmon cornets didn’t sound very promising but turned out to be way above my expectations.

gruyere puffs
Gruyere puffs
salmon cornets with crême fraîche cream and red onions
Salmon cornets with crême fraîche cream and red onions

Parsnip-Vanilla “Velouté”. Lingonberries and Garden Tarragon. Refined and subtle – first time I liked vanilla in something else than a dessert.

Parsnip-Vanilla "Velouté". Lingonberries and Garden Tarragon
Parsnip-Vanilla “Velouté”. Lingonberries and Garden Tarragon

“Oysters and pearls”,”Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. The dish that I will remember all my life. A marriage of ingredients (buttery tapioca and iodic oysters and caviar) to die for.

"Oysters and pearls","Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
“Oysters and pearls”,”Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar

Shima Aji, Asian Pear, Pickeled Jalapeno and “Sauce Japonaise”. The crunchy fleur de sel, sweet Japanese sauce reduction and the finest sashimi.  From the first sight, it is so simple, yet so powerful.

Shima Aji, Asian Pear, Pickeled Jalapeno and "Sauce Japonaise"
Shima Aji, Asian Pear, Pickeled Jalapeno and “Sauce Japonaise”

“Smoke”, Golden Trout Roe and Diane St Claire’s Butter with Bonito Flakes. The trout roe was served with smoke. Literally. Amazing would be an understatement.

"Smoke" ,Golden Trout Roe and Diane St Claire's Butter with Bonito Flakes
“Smoke” ,Golden Trout Roe and Diane St Claire’s Butter with Bonito Flakes

Soft Scrambled Squire Hills Farm’s Ameraucana Hen Egg, Crispy “Ris de Veau”. I think I don’t need to mention that is the best-scrambled eggs I have ever eaten. The ris de veau was very tender.

Soft Scrambled Squire Hills Farm's Ameraucana Hen Egg,Crispy "Ris de Veau"
Soft Scrambled Squire Hills Farm’s Ameraucana Hen Egg,Crispy “Ris de Veau”

Duck Pastrami,per se Coleslaw and Violet Mustard. Liked it, but didn’t love it

Duck Pastrami,per se Coleslaw and Violet Mustard
Duck Pastrami,per se Coleslaw and Violet Mustard

Tartare of Kindai Bluefin Tuna, Szechuan Pepper Lavash, Heirloom Radishes “Cuits et Crus”, English Cucumber and Pea Tendrils with Yuzu Emulsion. It’s funny because few days before my lunch in Per Se, I had something similar in Jean Georges– not the same level at all.

Tartare of Kindai Bluefin Tuna, Szechuan Pepper Lavash,Heirloom Radishes "Cuits et Crus",English Cucumber and Pea Tendrils with Yuzu Emulsion
Tartare of Kindai Bluefin Tuna, Szechuan Pepper Lavash, Heirloom Radishes “Cuits et Crus”,English Cucumber and Pea Tendrils with Yuzu Emulsion
per se

Grilled Spanish Mackerel,Sweet Peppers,Globe Artichokes and Haricots Verts ” en Ravogote” with Petite Basil. Sweet and sour bouillon worked perfectly with usually fatty mackerel

Grilled Spanish Mackerel,Sweet Peppers,Globe Artichokes and Haricots Verts " en Ravogote" with Petite Basil
Grilled Spanish Mackerel,Sweet Peppers,Globe Artichokes and Haricots Verts ” en Ravogote” with Petite Basil

Snake River Farm’s “Calotte de Boeuf Grillée”, Crispy Bone Marrow, Trumpet Royale Mushrooms and Braised Salsify with “Sauce Périgourdine”. Excellent. Fleur de sel, present in many dishes, gave “crunchiness”.

Snake River Farm's "Calotte de Boeuf Grillée", Crispy Bone Marrow, Trumpet Royale Mushrooms and Braised Salsify with "Sauce Périgourdine"
Snake River Farm’s “Calotte de Boeuf Grillée”, Crispy Bone Marrow, Trumpet Royale Mushrooms and Braised Salsify with “Sauce Périgourdine”

Pink Champagne Granité. It actually tasted like champagne. As you can see simplicity is one of the ingredients in Thomas Keller kitchen. Can I call it effortless talent? The only other chef that I know and could call effortless talented is Michel Troisgros.

Pink Champagne Granité
Pink Champagne Granité

The desserts at Per Se were extraordinary. You almost want to ask “can I have some more” (and i usually do prefer the “salty” part of my meals)

Vacherin, Passion Fruit Meringue, Blood Orange "Suprêmes" and Passion Fruit Sorbet
Vacherin, Passion Fruit Meringue, Blood Orange “Suprêmes” and Passion Fruit Sorbet
"Coffee and Doughnuts", Cinnamon-Sugared Doughnuts with Cappuccino "Semifreddo"
“Coffee and Doughnuts”, Cinnamon-Sugared Doughnuts with Cappuccino “Semifreddo”
"Banoffee",Devil's Food Cake,Chocolate "Marquise" and Malt Mousse with Banana-Crême Fraîche Sherbet
“Banoffee”,Devil’s Food Cake,Chocolate “Marquise” and Malt Mousse with Banana-Crême Fraîche Sherbet
"Peanut Butter and Milk",Bitter Chocolate Mousse with Salted Peanut Cream and Reduced Milk Ice cream
“Peanut Butter and Milk”,Bitter Chocolate Mousse with Salted Peanut Cream and Reduced Milk Ice cream
Crème Brulée
Crème Brulée
The kitchen
The kitchen
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