Apr 11, '09

Umu

Umu

Umu is the idea of a  restaurant that I dreamt of ever since I had that very intriguing, but maybe too authentic for Westerners eyes and taste buds meal in Kikunoi in Kyoto .”Could anybody recreate the Kyoto style kaiseki meal but with a modern touch in Europe? “, I wondered.

Umu

Yet again, to call oneself “the only kaiseki restaurant in the UK” is a good thing for one’s image. I have no doubt that Umu has people, products and “know-how” resources to be able to call themselves “the only kaiseki restaurant in the UK”, but the ambience was far more similar to the ambience of Nobu, rather than kaiseki restaurant. Obviously, one Michelin star, cutting edge interior and fun and loud ambience has become an attraction for London’s “beautiful crowd”. Which is not a bad thing, but is just so opposite to the “zen” spirit of kaiseki meal I had in Kyoto. Or even in Kyo Ya in New York.

I had a feeling that Umu has two faces, one that tries to reinvent the traditional Kyoto kaiseki idea( you can choose from six different kaiseki menus), and another, maybe even more dominant, very Nobu like.

That’s why I went for à la carte, as it was somehow more “fitting” with the mood of the place. The quality of the products was very good and superior to many Japanese restaurants in London I’ve been to. Most of the dishes were very well thought of and I wouldn’t go too far if I say that Umu is my new favourite Japanese restaurant in London.

The dinner was started with an amuse-bouche, as far as I remember, it included green beans, mango and rice puffs. A refreshing start.

amuse-bouche
Amuse-bouche

“Sweet shrimp, sake jelly and caviar”.A fine mixture of tastes, although the caviar was more of a decoration.

Sweet shrimp, sake jelly and caviar
Sweet shrimp, sake jelly and caviar

“Umu green salad” You could feel chives in the dressing – very fresh.

Umu green salad
Umu green salad

“Three seasonal tempura, crab and courgette, minced prawn and mushroom, scallop, Parma ham and lilly root”. My least favourite dish. The tempura was very heavy and didn’t fit at all with watery courgette or parma ham. Could even say that I hated it…

Three seasonal tempura, crab and courgette, minced prawn and mushroom, scallop, Parma ham and lilly root
Three seasonal tempura, crab and courgette, minced prawn and mushroom, scallop, Parma ham and lilly root

Toro and salmon sushi. Great quality of fish, but next time I would ask the sushi chef not to spoil the toro with the radish and chives.

Toro and salmon sushi
Toro and salmon sushi

“Grade nine Wagyu beef, pear and horseradish sauce”. Excellent, it was served on a small own heater.

Grade nine Wagyu beef, pear and horseradish sauce
Grade nine Wagyu beef, pear and horseradish sauce
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