Frantzén /Lindeberg

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Live langoustines at Frantzén/Lindeberg

Live langoustines

Frantzén/ Lindeberg is about what many new wave gastronomy restaurants are not. Delicious,great tasting food. The 2 Michelin stars place is ran by two brilliant Swedish chefs Björn Frantzén  and Daniel Lindeberg who are obsessed with perfect ingredients ( 95 % of which come from Sweden and neighboring countries).

Because of some last minute cancellation, we had an opportunity to sit at the chefs’ table. What an evening it was! Live langoustines showed off on your table before being transformed into a (raw)  tartare with celery, lard and apples; freshly baked bread with  butter churned in front of you or beautiful, firm scallops from  Trondheim cooked over an open fire and shaved over with black truffles from Bourgogne. Yes, Frantzén and Lindeberg do own their own garden where they grow their vegetables and herbs ( “The Satio Tempestas” dish was impressive ) , but what really makes them stand out is their focus on how their dishes taste.  Why use black truffles from Gotland which taste like nothing if it’s the season of  truffles from Bourgogne at the moment ?  Once we ate the scallops, scallops dashi was poured into the scallops shells. I did feel a little bit like at some exclusive restaurant in Tokyo with a chef cooking in front of you, chatting and guiding you through the gastronomic voyage.

I particularly liked bone marrow with smoked parsley , “smetana” and Oscietra caviar ( the caviar was German by the way) and, another very memorable dish,  Swedish marbled beef with truffle shavings. Despite of an old age ( the animal was 11 or 12 years I think, the meat was dry aged for several months), the simply prepared “Chubai” beef  was melting in your mouth.
The hand written evening’s menu was divided into 4 different sections. Once the time of “Chapter 4 and Epilogue” came, Daniel Lindeberg, the pastry chef, showed up. Oxidized pear granita with hazelnut emulsion,sea salt & flat “Braggot Mead” ; sea buckthorn sorbet with whipped Oolong mousse, meringues with matcha tea & crystalized sea lettuce, or dried pig’s blood petit four with pig blood’s cream, blackberries and bitter chocolate. Like the savory part, the desserts were an elegant homage to local and seasonal  Scandinavian ingredients without being too much radical about that. Frantzén/ Lindeberg is definitely among the world’s greatest!

The evening’s menu…

Prologue (amuse bouches)

Blood pancake, liver with lingonberries and beetroot; spelt brioche with chicken skin and dried butter ; beef from “Chubai” (46 months old) on lichens;pig’s head in shellfish emulsion,vendace roe on pork rinds; “vichyssoise” with truffle and ash;carrot macaron with bird’s liver and tarragon…

Bread dough

Chapter 1

Oyster “62C” with Jersey cream,dried seaweed, sea buckthorn

Chef Björn Frantzén preparing “langoustine with celery and essence of pressed apples”

Chef Björn Frantzén preparing “langoustine with celery and essence of pressed apples”

Langoustine with celery and essence of pressed apples

Pike served with king crab,cooked in beer and dill

Bone marrow with smoked parsley, smetana and Oscietra caviar

Chapter 2

Bread&butter

The Satio Tempestas dish was made from 47 ingredients, which included various vegetables, herbs and nuts,Swedish sea salt, homemade butter, egg and fried fish scales

Scallop cooked over an open fire, truffle and first eggs hens ever lay

Scallops dashi , scallops tartare

Chapter 3

Grilled monkfish with goat’s cream perfumed with liquorice

Frozen carrot and grapefruit with pink pepper and olive oil

Swedish marbled beef with black truffles shavings

Coal flamed lamb tartare with cumin, eggplant and goat cheese

Another lamb dish- almost as fatty as Wagyu

Chapter 4 & Epilogue

Chef Daniel Lindeberg

Chef Daniel Lindeberg

Oxidized pear granita with hazelnut emulsion, sea salt and flat “Braggot Mead”

Pancakes made from cloudberry and stone-grounded flour with oven baked ice cream , flavoured with cloudberries and Tahiti vanilla. Roasted white chocolate ganache with warm cloudberry compotte, wild thyme and maple syrup

Sea buckthorn sorbet with whipped Oolong mousse, meringues with matcha tea & crystalized sea lettuce

Petit fours

Dried pig’s blood with pig’s blood cream, blackberries and bitter chocolate; fermented garlic; glazed blueberry bisquit with toasted pine kernels,bark and pickled spruce shoots; “fruit du jour”; fresh walnuts from Bordeaux, salted walnut and chocolate turron; salted caramel macaron flavoured with tar&hay ash; macaron with arctic raspberry ganache…

Sommelier Niklas Lofgren

Björn Frantzén and Daniel Lindeberg

Björn Frantzén and Daniel Lindeberg

COMMENTS
  • http://www.gastronomictraveller.blogspot.se/ Magnus

    Great post as usual! I can’t wait to go myself..  Nov 30th 

    • Luxeat

       Thanks Magnus! Nice, you will enjoy it!!

      • Zwampen

         Was there 1 month ago and can just agree in all positive words. It is one of the tops in Europe, maybe in the world?! Great post as always.

  • Almas

    Gotland truffles are the same as the Bourgogne variety, although the former are more expensive since they are supposedly Swedish… Perhaps that is what the chef meant? Of course, it is all of even worse quality than German caviar. :) I am pleasantly intrigued they offered Perigord truffle from down under earlier this year though, which seems a growing trend in Europe. Disregarding my earlier criticisms, F/L certainly has lots of potential.

    • Luxeat

       Hi Almas, actually, I don’t know if Frantzén/Lindeberg ever use Gotland truffles. I’ve had them at Noma and at some other Scandinavian restaurant and I found them bland and not as good as truffles from Perigord…

  • Cedargln

    Nice, I  guess, but waaay too busy

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  • Michael Booth

    Hi Aiste,

    Interesting to see this. I ate there a couple of years ago and, though really impressed by their ambition, I did feel they were trying too hard. The plates were too busy and show-offy. Plus, the room was a little disappointing. This looks better, I have to admit, and I would love to return soon.

    Question is: I was with a few Scandinavian food writers this weekend and I asked them which Scandinavian restaurant was likely to get the third star first – Maaemo, Noma, F&L or Mathias Dahlgren. Surprise verdict was Dahlgren, actually. 

    What do you think?

    xM

    • luxeat

      Hi Michael, I have only been to the more casual (1*) Mathias Dahlgren restaurant, so can’t really comment on his main restaurant. But for me  F/L definitely deserves 3 Michelin stars. It’s the best restaurant in Scandinavia I’ve been!
      P.S. Great hearing you on Monocle radio ;)
      Aiste

  • Jesper

    Hi Aiste,

    I was there in August (2013) just after Frantzén open after the “summer vacation” so this was after Lindberg left so there were some slight changes (in comparison when you ate there) and one is
    that Björn Frantzén had got quite some (more…) inspirations from Japan, which now is somewhat, reflected in the dinner and menu. One example is that the tempo for the dinner is higher (now roughly 2,5 hours) but also some food itself has got a touch of Japan (which honestly also was the case before the departure of Lindeberg).

    Personally I think that Frantzén is one of the very best restaurants currently and from my perspective and references I definitively think it deserves 3 stars! My post from the dinner: http://blog4foodies.com/2013/08/19/frantzen/

    /Jesper