Confessions of a Michelin Inspector

Confessions of a Michelin Inspector

Gaining a Michelin star, or three, isn’t simply a mark of excellence, it means your restaurant status goes automatically from a great choice to a must. We had the great pleasure to speak to Chris Watson, ex-Michelin Guide inspector, about the complexity of this rating system, the weight of allocating…

28
Feb
Blog
On Sushi Kanesaka & dining in Tokyo

On Sushi Kanesaka & dining in Tokyo

On Sushi Kanesaka & dining in Tokyo

I have special sentiments for Sushi Kanesaka as it was one of the first fine sushi shops I’ve been in Tokyo. When I started travelling there for eating, food tourism, how we know it, was still in its infancy phase in Japan. Things began to change when in 2009 Michelin…

12
May '15
Le Cinq by Christian Le Squer

Le Cinq by Christian Le Squer

Le Cinq by Christian Le Squer

The world of gastronomy in Paris has been bustling with speculations lately about where will the former Ledoyen’s head chef Christian Le Squer go next. Three weeks ago it became apparent that it will be Le Cinq restaurant at George V hotel. Christian Le Squer is one of those uber…

4
Nov '14
That magic box at Harutaka

That magic box at Harutaka

That magic box at Harutaka

It might sound ironic, but the most expensive part of bluefin tuna, nowadays served at the best sushi restaurants in Tokyo, New York of Los Angeles, was not considered valuable at all by the general Japanese population 50 or so years ago. According to Trevor Carson, the author of “The…

21
Oct '14
Photo report from 1 Michelin star Mikawa Zezankyo

Photo report from 1 Michelin star Mikawa Zezankyo

Photo report from 1 Michelin star Mikawa Zezankyo

This was certainly not my favourite tempura I’ve ever had (my all-time favourite is 7 Chome Kyoboshi), but still better than any tempura outside of Japan. I love how Japanese are able to perfectionize anything from growing melons to frying vegetables in some batter, which actually end up tasting so…

20
Oct '14
Sushi Mizutani

Sushi Mizutani

Sushi Mizutani

Mizutani (9F, Juno Ginza Seiwa Bldg, 8-7-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo; tel. 03-3573-5258) is undoubtedly one of the greatest sushi chefs in history. Some call his rice “mushy” or not al dente enough, but the disciple of the legendary Jiro Ono has really mastered the perfect rice. Very different than the…

13
Oct '14
Epicure – c’est magnifique!

Epicure – c’est magnifique!

Epicure – c’est magnifique!

Wonderful Burlat cherries and pistachios dessert at Epicure in Paris today (3 Michelin stars). One can’t beat the old school indeed!

9
Jun '14
Le Cinq

Le Cinq

Le Cinq

Vegetarian cooking has become increasingly more important in high-end dining. When I started eating at fine restaurants, it was very rare to see simple vegetables served as a dish by itself. Nowadays, thanks to the influence of such gastronomy luminaries as Michel Bras, Alain Passard or Rene Redzepi, some restaurants…

8
Jun '14
Is Mirazur really the best restaurant in France?

Is Mirazur really the best restaurant in France?

Is Mirazur really the best restaurant in France?

Despite the fact that picking the best restaurant in the world is as absurd as voting for the world’s best anything, no one could deny that the 50 best restaurants list is a genius PR initiative. Thanks to the marketing power of these annual, highly publicised awards living culinary legends…

22
May '14
Wild strawberries season at Louis XV is open

Wild strawberries season at Louis XV is open

Wild strawberries season at Louis XV is open

I guess this is what distinguishes a great restaurant from an ordinary one. The audacity and, most of all, the ability of serving something so simple as these slightly cooked wild strawberries with mascarpone ice cream, and, at the same time, making it so memorable. I can still smell those…

18
May '14
Asparagus theater

Asparagus theater

Asparagus theater

Elaborate show and luxurious presentation is often a huge part of 3 Michelin stars restaurant experience and the price you pay for it. I recently read somewhere that people find expensive food better tasting. The simply poached asparagus with crushed egg condiment at Alain Ducasse Monaco was without doubt an excellent…

5
May '14